According to the majority of geographists Mont Blanc is the highest mountain in Europe. It is situated in the Mont Blanc massif, in which the kindgom of the Alps reaches its top level, mainly due to the great heights and size of peaks. It’s one of the best view points in the Alps not only thanks to its height but also to the original shapes of the bastion rocks, aiguilles and powerfull walls and pillars towering over silent glaciers.
The region of Mont Blanc is characterised by the changes of the weather caused by the Atlantic Ocean nearness. In the Summer, however, sunny days are prevailing, there are more sunny days than in the Tatras. Temperatures vary between -10 and +10 above the level of 4000m.Because of the height and the amount of snow the sun is very strong here.
We ascend the summit along Gouter and Bosson crests, which are the safest and least difficult ways. On our way we have to cover about 300m of rocky passage, which is as difficult as Orla Perc in the Tatras. The most of the way is along a gentle slope covered with snow and then a crest covered with ice and snow sloping at 40 degrees.
Before we climb Mont Blanc, to get acclimatised we will ascend one of the easiest 4 thousand meters mountain – Gran Paradiso (4061m). It’s the highest peak of the Graic Alps. It is situated in the national park that’s why there aren’t any cable railways to the top, instead we can admire beautiful nature; waterfalls, flowery meadows, mountain goats, capricorns and of course wonderful mountains. Thanks to the acclimatisatiom accuired, climbing Mont Blanc will be much easier.
All the dificulties that can appear during the ascent shouldn’t be an obstacle for an avarage tourist, however he or she must be appropriately trained. The height, lack of oxygen, low blood pressure and the sun can cause certain problems. However our acclimatisation on Gran Paradiso should make the problems less significant. The participants should pay attention to their condition preaparation, we suggest that you run and march with the rucksack.
Caution! It’s impossible to take part in the expedition if you suffer from any illnesses that are dangerous at the great heights.
The trail you will be following has been covered by the organisers many times. In the places and situations that can be dangerous you will be secured with a rope. During all of the expeditions we try to ensure an appropriate acclimatisation. The organiser provides one person per 4-6 participants.
The price includes: the organisation of the expedition, accomodation in the tents provided by us (in the mountains and at the camp sites), 1 night in refuge gouter, 1 night in refuge Emmanuelle, insurance, food (we cook ourselves using burners) , tram to Nid d’Aigle and back, club’s fee.
The price does not include the transport (about 1100 pln- 1200 pln – minibus). It’s possible to use your own transport.
1.If you are willing to participate in the expedition please, apply not later than by the end of March/ beginning of April.
2.To confirm your reservation, please, pay club’s fee (1000 pln) to the bank account; Stowarzyszenie „ Annapurna Klub „ Santander Bank 34 1090 1652 0000 0000 6404 1166 with anotation „ składka specjalna „. Please, inform us about your payment via e-mail or post.
3.Please, send us your name, surname, date and place of birth, adress, via e-mail or post.
We set out from Katowice and go by bus to Pont (1960), in the Graic Alps. There’s a possibility to meet us there. On the same day we have to ascend the shelter Vittorio Emmanuele 2770, around which we spend a night. There are no cable railways, instead we can see wonderfull, premevial nature. On our way to the shelter we can admire the carpets of flowers and a beautiful waterfall. It’s not difficult to meet here a mountain goat, capricorn, a fox or a marmot. Above the shelter we can see impressive 3 thousand meters peaks. Next day we get up early in the morning. We go along the rocky valley, then through a glacier, we get to a ledge covered with snow. When we continue climbing this gentle slope, after 5 hours we’ll get to the figure of Madonna, having covered a short rocky passage (10 metres). From the top the most beautiful view on Mont Blanc spreads, if the visibility is good we can even see the Meditereenean Sea. From the top along the same way we get down to the shelter. Next day we descend to Pont and travel to Les Houches, a small town from where we set off to the top of Mont Blanc.
By the cable car or the tram we get to Nid d’aigle (eagle’s nest) from Saint Gervains, from where we start our ascent. Our first destination is Aiguille du Gouter and the shelter situated above it. First we follow the rocky path, where we can meet mountain goats, then, we go through Tete Rouse glacier and next we have to cover the gully full of stones.
Along the lodge which easily breaks, we ascend Aiguille du Gouter-3817m, which takes about 4 hours from Nid d’Aigle. This passage is similar to Orla Perc in the Tatras, however we climb upwards all the time. Next to the shelter, which is on the top of the mountain, we spend a night. Next day we set off very early to reach the peak of Mont Blanc. The trail leads along the glacier and a crest covered with snow. Along the slope Dome du Gouter we get to Vallot shelter (4362m), the height can be felt at this moment so we climb more and more slowly; step-breathe in, step- breath out. We get to a steep crest of Bossons where a strong wind can make climbing difficult. Climbing along the narrow and windy crest requires concentration. And finally we are at our dreamt top – a wide snowfield. After reaching the summit we go down to Nid d’Aigle, from where by tram we get down the mountain. After eight days we return to Poland.
Day by day itinerary
– travel Katowice- Pont (Valsavaranche valley ),
– climbing up to Vittorio Emmanulele shelter (2800m), training, night in the tents
– ascending Gran Paradiso (4061m), descending and travel to Les Houches at the foot of Mont Blanc. Night at the camp site.
– tram to Nid d’Aigle 2400m, ascending 3000m, night in the tents
– climbing Aiguille de Gouter (3800m). Night in the tents
– ascending the summit
– 3 days of reserve
– travel to Poland.
– 5 metres of a rope (5 mm) or prussic loops
– 2 locking biners
– 2 loops (rope 50-70 cm)
– if you have take a tibloc or an ascension
– 750 g of gas appropriate for your burner (one cylinder – 500g, 1 cyllinder – 250g.) if you don’t have a burner take Epi type gas
– ice axe
– crampons adjusted to the shoes
– warm leather or other thermal shoes with a stiff sole or mountaineering boots (the best 1 size too big but not too loose, the heel must be stable while walking, the sole must be stiff so as the crampons didn’t fall out)
– rucksack 65- 100 l
– NRC foil
– Telescopic sticks (not obligatory)
– Sun protection cream, factor 30- 60 , Vichy
– sunglasses or glacier glasses
– 2 polar fleece jackets – polar 200 or one jacket – polar 200 and one jacket – polar 300
– polar fleece trousers – polar 100-150
– breathable underwear (not obligatory )
– foam pad or self blowing mattress
– windproof trousers and jacket (e.g. goretex)
– something to protect the head from the sun
– something to protect the face from the wind (scarf, mask etc.)
– toilet paper
– mess tin
– cutlery , knife
– articles of toilet
– steel vacuum flask
– thick woolen socks or other thermal ones, 2 pairs
– other socks, thin anti-sweat or thin woolen ones
– warm skiing gloves or over-mitts with a polar lining
– additional gloves (the best skiing or thick polar ones)
– sleeping bag min -10 (synthetic, min 1,6 kg, down-filled 0,8 kg)
– trekking gaiters
– headlamp (LED), spare batteries
– bic lighter (flint)