Lenin’s peak – 7134m., towers over the highest upland in the Word – the Pamir mountains. It has got truly Himalayan size.
Looking towards the mountains from the steppes of Achik-Tash valley (3000m) on our right we can see a group of 3 and 4 thousand metres high mountains and on our left, a group of 6 thousand metres high mountains, over which our destination towers. Its size is overwhelming them . The difference of the heights between the base camp and the peak is similar to the one we face on the highest 8 thousand metres high mountains.
The Pamir mountains are situated in central Asia and are characterised by a stable weather with a great amount of sunny days. The best months for climbing are July and August. The temperature shouldn’t fall below -30 C (At nights and close to the summit). In the lower parts the heat tends to be very annoying. The climbers are exposed to very strong solar radiation.
We’re ascending the mountain along the classic trail. First we climb the Traveler’s pass, then we climb the glacier. At the height of 4500 the glacier piles up and changes into a steep slope. Along this slope we ascend the western crest and reach the peak. Technically, reaching the summit is easy, the way consists of huge but gently-sloping ground covered with snow. The only danger can be avalanches and crevasses
Although it is easy, we should treat Lenin’s peak seriously. It’s size is demanding. It’s one of the few summits available for less experienced climbers. However, they should have some predispositions- health, condition, ability to move on the glacier. Because of gently-sloping grounds, climbing takes a long time, usually in soft snow. After falls the snow can be deep which makes climbing very difficult, especially at a great height. The summit’s crest is 7 km long, and is situated above 6000m
Ascending can be made difficult also by the strong wind on the crest. It’s advisable to have any experience in high mountain climbing (minimum the Alps) and the knowledge of the mountains. Rarefied air is the main obstacle on the way to the summit. Above 5000 almost everyone suffers general weakness connected with ascending great height, headaches and other ailments. We try to provide a thorough acclimatization so that these difficulties could appear in an insignificant level and weren’t an obstacle on our way to the summit.
We pay attention also to the preparation of your condition before setting out, we can recommend marching, running and walking in the mountains.We suggest that you spend a lot of time on great heights. As far as the climbing equipment is concerned, you must take telescopic sticks, crampons, ice axe and a harness.
Caution! It’s impossible to take part in the expedition if great heights are harmful to your health. We suggest that you vaccinate against tetanus and jaundice before seetting out. The trail you will follow has been tested by the organisers.
11 000 pln
The price includes: accomodation in high quality tents and in private houses, climbing insurance, food (two meals a day, in the mountains we cook ourselves using burners, we also take provisions as a third meal), special lyophilized food and food on mesa after descending, the permit to enter the boarder zone, registration in OWIR, invitation, ecological fee, base fee, all the fees introduced in 2005, flight Warsaw-Bishkek- Warsaw in case of big differences in prices we fly from Kaliningrad or another airport and we provide the transport there), flight Bishkek-Osh-bishkek, land transport from Osh to the base.
The price doesn’t include excess luggage, alcohol, bribes, flight tax (10$) and visas if necessery.
1. If you want to participate in the expedition, please, apply by the 15th of april.
2. To confirm your reservation, please, pay 3500 for the flight ticket.
We meet at the Okecie airport. In case of the big difference in price it’s posible to fly from Moscow, where we get by the direct train from Warsaw. We fly to Bishkek, in Kyrgyzstan. Next day we fly to Osh. After doing the formalities and buying food supplies and fuel by a hired UAZ we go to the base camp on Achik-Tash (Onion Glade). The base camp is situated at 3800m and surrounded by mountains. In the base there are two yurts where the people of Kyrgyzstan, who graze their animals there, live. The peak of 19th Party Convention towers over the base camp.
Next day we climb the first camp, firts through the 4000metres long Traveler’s Pass, then we descend to the glacier which we climb to get the first camp (4200m). We spend a night there, then we go down to the base camp and ascend the first camp the next day again. After the night we set off to the second camp (5300m.), which we should reach after 6 hours as on this part of the trail there is a snow wall sloping at 40degrees and a lot of crevasses, some of which have to be crossed using ladders put horizontally above them. We spend a night in the second camp.
Next day we set off to the third camp which is situated at 6100m, on our way we have the possibility to admire Razdielnaja Peak (6200 m.). We spend a night in a third camp and then we go back to the first camp. Whole next day is intended for resting. Next two days we climb the third camp again . If the weather is good we try to reach the summit during the next day. Due to the lack of time, weather conditions , participants’ health or other reasons the way of acclimatisation may change.
We set off before the day. Slowly, step by step, like in a slow motion movie, sometimes along very narrow ridges, having the view of the whole Pamir in front of us, we get higher and higher. After 7-10 hours we ascend the peak. From there we descend to the third camp. Next day we descend to the base camp. From the base camp we take UAZ to Osh, next we fly to Bishkek, from where we return to Poland.
Possible free time can be spent on admiring beautiful nature which will be less tiring than ascending the peak.
Day by day itinerary
Shopping, flight to Osh, night
Travel to the base camp at 3700m
15-17 days of climbing
Travel from base camp to Osh, night, sightseeing (Salomon’s mountain and temples)
Flight to Bishkok
Flight to Poland
– warm mountaineering shoes or thermal shoes e.g. Millet Everest or Millet Export (or other thermal shoes e.g. Skarpa Phantom) 1,5-2 size too big, they should be loose enough to have space for a thick sock but not too big, the heel must be stable while walking)
– 4-6 pairs of thick, thermal socks, 2 pairs of woolen and 2 pairs of other thermal socks
– other socks (including anti-sweat)
– down filled shoes for sleeping
– trekking gaiters
– overboots (not necessery when you use thermal shoes)
– polar fleece trousers – polar 100 (2 pairs), polar fleece trousers – polar 300
– goretex trousers or similar ones
– underpants, breathable t-shirts
– 2 polar fleece blouses – polar 100, one polar fleece blouse – polar 200 or 300
– short down filled jacket
– goretex jacket or similar one
– gore- tex over-mitts or very warm gloves with fingers
– 2 pairs of polar gloves -polar 200 and 300, thin gloves are useful while operating the gear (gloves and over-mitts must be loose enough not to block the blood circulation in the fingers, fingers must have some space and nothing can pinch them)
– down filled over-mitts
– a hat, a sleeping bag (down filled, min 0,9kg)
– a rucksack 70l –100l, rucksack 40l,
– glacier glasses, googles
– Sun protection cream, protection factor 45- 90 (vichy)
– mask protecting from the wind
– chemical warming agents for feet and fingers (a lot)
– light bivouac bag
– mess tin, cutlery
– 2 rolls of toilet paper
– vacuum flask 0,7-1 l
– articles of toilet, underwear
– trekking shoes
– 12 teeth crampons (if you have overboots that cover the sole take only strap-on crampons, the best are Grivel G12 )
– ice axe
– leg loop harness
– 2 ice screws
– 1 snowtube
– 2 slings 70 and 50 cm
– locking biners, carabiners, tibloc
– rope (3-4 mm in diameter, 5m long)
– telescopic sticks
– burner, type Epi (cylinder with screw), 2 bic lighters
– headlight and spare batteries