Situated in the western part of China, in Kashgar, Muztagh Ata is the second highest mountain to the north of Tibetan Plateau and one of 50 highest mountains in the world.

Muztagh Ata is at the same time the easiest of these highest 50 mountains, and technically the easiest seven thousand metres high mountain.

The peak is situated in the Kunlun massif, very close to the second giant – Kongur (7790m.). From the north side its surrounded by the Pamir massif and from the south by the Takla Makan dessert. At its foot there is a famous way; Karakorum highway, and beautiful meadows.

Its name in the language of its inhabitants means “the father of the icebergs”.

First attempt to ascend the mountain took place in the 19th century but the first successfull ascent was accomplished by Chinese-Russian team in 1956. The first Polish ascent took place in the 90s. Gentle slopes on the west and dry climate of Kashgar make the mountain easily accessible.The trail is usually sloping at not more than 20 degrees, in the steeper passages it can slope at 30 degrees. From the height of 5600 to 6400 there may be more crevesses, there can appear seracs and the slope may be steeper. On this passage we use crampons. Above 6400 the slope is gentle but it can be very snowy. That’s why we have to wear snowshoes or tour skis. The slope is very gentle up to the top. It’s very popular to use skis and slide downhill. Despite the gentle slopes and lack of technical difficulties reaching the mountain is a serious challenge. As the mountain is one of the highest in the world we will face extreme conditions such as lack of the oxygen, unsettled weather, extremaly low temperatures and very strong winds which make these experiences even worse. Those who want to try this ascent must be psychically and phisically well prepared. It’s vital to be experienced in other mountains either medium or high. Due to the great heights almost everyone suffers headaches or nausea. There is a risk of fatal ilnessess connected with heights such as brain or lungs oedema. However we try to provide such a good acclimatization that makes these problems appear at the least significant level. Participation in this expedition is forbidden for those who suffer from heart and lungs diseases and who can’t stay at great heights.

To transfer the equipment to the base camp we’ll use camels. To supply the camps there will be a possibility to hire local porters.

Apart from the mountain we’ll have the possibility to see beautiful meadows and fields, Kashgar with its mysterious bazaar and if we have enough time, Takla Makan dessert and camels. All of these places are situated on the historical silk trail.

We have reached the summit twice so we know the way very well.
We reccommend vaccination against tetanus and jaundice type A and B.

COSTS:

25600 pln – only 3 participants are taking part
19600 pln – 4 participants
17600pln-   5 participants or more

The price includes; the organisation of the expedition, flight Warsaw-Kashgar, land transfer Kashgar-Subashi, camels caravan to the base camp, permission to climb the summit, liaison officer’s costs, all necessery documents and permissions needed to travel freely in Kyrgizstan and China, Chinese visa’s costs, accomodation in hotels and yurts, in the mountains we sleep in the tents (we provide the tents), food (down the mountains 2 meals a day, full board, cooked ourselves, in the mountains, it includes lyophilised food), climbing insurance.

The price does not include; flight tax, possible excess luggage, possible additional payment for the fresh meals in the base camp, chinease visa fee

APPLICATIONS:

1. If you are willing to participate inthe expedition, please, contact us until the 5th of May.
2.To confirm your reservation,please, pay 5000 pln for the ticket to the bank account Stowarzyszenie „ Annapurna Klub Santader Bank 34 1090 1652 0000 0000 6404 1166 with annotation „ Muztagh Ata- ticket„. Please, confirm your paymant via e-mail or post
3.Please send us your name,surname, identity numer and address.

ITINERARY:

From Warsaw we fly to Kashgar in China.

In Kashgar we get the gas and do the formalities and after one or two nights we go through the Karakorum highway towards Karakol Lake to Subashi, situated at the height of 2900 m., from where we can admire beautiful view on our mountain mirrored in the lake. Somewehere around Karakol Lake we spend a night in a yurt made of concrete.

Next day we get to the base camp at the height of 4400m above the sea level. As our luggage is transported by the camels we travel light. Getting the base camp takes about 4-6 hours, on the way we must cross a very deep river. We spend 2 nights in the base camp, then we make an acclimatisaction ascent to the level of 5000m and get back to the base camp. We pitch the first camp at the height of 5570. The way to this camp is rocky and there is a possibility to hire donkeys in order not to get too tired. After a night in this camp we go to the base camp. When we get rest we go to the first camp and set off higher to pitch the second camp. The trail to the second camp leads through a glacier full of crevasses and seracs so we need to use crampons here. The second camp is pitched at the height of 6400, we spend a night there, then we try to climb higher for acclimatisation and we descend to the base camp to rest. When we get rest we are ready to set off for the top. Through the first camp we get to the second one. Next we take the tents and go higher to pitch the third camp. The way is sloping gently, there can be a lot of snow so we use snowshoes or skis. The third camp is pitched at 6700-6900 m. After the night we set off for the summit. The ascent takes about 8 hours and strong wind can trouble us from the sides. We reach the summit with snowsoes or skis on our feet. We go back to the third camp, then to the first one and from the first one to the base camp.

Caution! Due to the participants’ abilities, weather conditions, or other reasons the way of acclimatisation may change.

There’s a possibility to ride a motorbike down to Subashi and from there by bus to Kashgar. In Kashgar we’ll hang around at the local bazaar and some historical places. If we have enough time we could go to the Takla Makan dessert to ride a camel. From Kashgar through Torugart pass and Naryn we go to Bishkek, from where we return to Poland.

Day by day itinerary

– flight to Kashgar through Torugart pass

– travel to Subashi, at Karakon Lake

– caravan to the base camp

– 19 days of climbing including:

– first camp at the height of 5570m

– second camp at the height of 6400m

– third camp at the height of 6900m

– the summit

– in case of any free time there’s a possibility of an excursion on Takla Makan dessert on camels.

– 3 days long return to Poland

NEEDED EQUIPMENT:

– thermal shoes (Millet Everest/ Scarpa Phantom/ La Sportiva Olympus Mons), possibly other thermal shoes or mountaineering boots, 1-1,5 size too big
– 4-6 pairs of woolen socks and other thermal socks
– other socks, including anti sweat ones
– down filled boots to wear while sleeping
– polar fleece trousers – polar 300
– polar fleece trousers – polar 100 (1-2 pairs )
– breathable underpants
– down filled trousers (not neccesserily )
– trousers with membrane (e.g. goretex )
– trekking gaiters or better overboots- not neccesery if you have shoes with overboots
– breathable t-shirts
– 1-2polar fleece jackets – polar100
– polar fleece jacket polar 300
– down filled jacket or sweater
– goretex jacket or another, similar one
– gore- tex over-mitts
– warm gloves with 5 fingers
– 2 pairs of polar gloves (polar 200 and polar 300/400) gloves and over-mitts must be fitted in an appropriate way so as nothing bloced the blood circulation, finger can’t be pinched
– down-filled over-mitts
– thin gloves to operate the equipment would be usefull
– hat
– headscarf or a hat/cap to protect you from the sun
– sleeping bag down filled 0,9- 1,3 kg
– rucksack 70l –100l
– rucksack 40l
– glacier glasses and something to protect the nose
– googles
– sun protection cream, factor 60, Vichy
– mask against the wind or other covering for the face
– chemical warming agents (hands and feet, about 6-10)
– light bivoac bag
– mess tin
– mug (not neccessarily )
– cutlery, knife/penknife
– 2 rolls of toilet paper
– vacuum flask 0,7-1 l
– articles of toilet
– handkerchiefs for washing
– underwear
– sandals or trainers
– trekking shoes
– crampons adjusted to the shoes
– snowshoes or tour skis adjusted to the shoes
– ice axe (2-3 for the whole group) looking for the volunyeers to take them
– leg loop harness
– snowtube (let us know if you have)
– loop (rope 50- 70 cm)
– locking biner
– rope (3-4 mm diameter, 5m long or prussic loops
– telescopic sticks
– burner, Epi type, cylinder with screws
– 2 bic lighters (flint)
– headlamp and spare batteries (LED)
– foam pad or self blowing mattrass
– NRC foil
– wash-up liquid
– thread and needles
– strong glue
– sticky tape
– dustbin liners